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 Post subject: Bobcat Trapping Question
PostPosted: 26 Jan 2015, 12:21 
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Good Morning everyone! I had a question for all of you and maybe some help. Im am trapping for bobcats primarily. I found a really nice trail that leads up to a dead pit (mainly bones) of cattle and sheep. There were a few tracks and some scat. I originally set up on Thursday but remembered I was going to be gone for a few days so I had everything baited and set, except for the trap. I just didn't want to catch anything and have it sit there for 2 days. Anyways, I came back yesterday and set the trap and used a cow bone as a backing. The white spot is the pan (wax paper as a cover). While the trap wasn't set, there was another scat dropping by the lure (violator 7).

Well this morning the trap was set off with nothing in it :oops:

there were a few white feathers near, so I don't know if a bird or something set it off or I had an animal that wasn't fully committed.

I will post the picture of what the set looks like. Feel free to offer more advice or criticism. Id rather catch something than be empty handed here!

Thanks.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/129197522@N04/16372167861/

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PostPosted: 26 Jan 2015, 13:31 
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Bad news is, if you had the cat in the trap at all, you won't get it in that set, or likely any similar set for a while if ever. They are fast learners. A different set type and different set look and different smells will have to be imployed. Its likely to avoid that area now.

If it wasnt the cat in the trap there are a few things right away I see I would change. Lose the white pan cover, cats have a hard time stepping on something that far out of color. Same goes for a dark pan or small set area in snow. They will go around or over it. An option is to use polyfil under the pan, and the hopefully dyed bare pan is offered as a nice flat spot.

The set is a good idea, being a walk through...but the pan looks like it is out of line with the trail on each side of it. I'd have wanted the pan about where the crap is, and shift the whole set accordingly. There is too much room between your guide sticks and the bone. Cat can walk right between. Dont allow the cat any more room to go through then the width of the jaws. Guide him to it hard.

Hope i helped

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PostPosted: 26 Jan 2015, 14:15 
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Thanks for the advice amak. Honestly im not sure if it was a cat or not. The only "new" evidence I had was the few white, small feathers.

Am I using the right sets or techniques for these trail sets? Obviously I need to clean them up a little bit and change a few things. Do I need to try and place sticks around the pan to make them step in the trap?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: 26 Jan 2015, 16:29 
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Yeah, i mean you have the concept for sure. Everyone has their own set making "style" and even if I were to teach you step by step how I do it, in the end your set will carry your look. Its kinda like everyones hand writting is unique. The main thing is to realize that cats are not canines in that they can and do squeeze through very tight areas without even much effort....places a rabbit wouldnt go.You want them blocked off or guided in some way right down next to the jaws of a #3 coilspring. If not they have a nasty little habit of walking right along the edge of the set and will miss the pan. The bare pan helps a lot, and i use a stick poked in the ground on each side of the trap and right even with the pan. I make the sticks so they angle inwards and are about 10-12 inches tall. That way when cat slips between the sticks, its very natural for them to step on the bare pan in order to slip by. I like about a 5-6 inch gap between the stick ends. Thats what I do but any way you can get them narrowed down to that distance right at the pan works. At times I use leaf piles pushed up right to the trap on each side. There is a bunch of creative things you can do to accomplish it. There is no need to get complex...keep it simple and smack in the trail with the trap.

Later on I will post pics of some sets I have out right now but will take pics in the morning.

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PostPosted: 26 Jan 2015, 16:38 
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Amak wrote:
Yeah, i mean you have the concept for sure. Everyone has their own set making "style" and even if I were to teach you step by step how I do it, in the end your set will carry your look. Its kinda like everyones hand writting is unique. The main thing is to realize that cats are not canines in that they can and do squeeze through very tight areas without even much effort....places a rabbit wouldnt go.You want them blocked off or guided in some way right down next to the jaws of a #3 coilspring. If not they have a nasty little habit of walking right along the edge of the set and will miss the pan. The bare pan helps a lot, and i use a stick poked in the ground on each side of the trap and right even with the pan. I make the sticks so they angle inwards and are about 10-12 inches tall. That way when cat slips between the sticks, its very natural for them to step on the bare pan in order to slip by. I like about a 5-6 inch gap between the stick ends. Thats what I do but any way you can get them narrowed down to that distance right at the pan works. At times I use leaf piles pushed up right to the trap on each side. There is a bunch of creative things you can do to accomplish it. There is no need to get complex...keep it simple and smack in the trail with the trap.

Later on I will post pics of some sets I have out right now but will take pics in the morning.



That sounds great! I get what your saying and I am confident in the process. Just have to find the right technique to get them on the pan. I would appreciate the pictures! Thanks! :--D


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PostPosted: 26 Jan 2015, 22:55 
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Image

I found an old pic that is similar to what i do now. Its been an evolution of my sets from somewhat open to what I do now as I came across mistakes I was making and how to better them. I will try to get better pics tomorrow but i run in the dark so keep the fingers crossed for a better pic. In this pic you can see the two upright angled sticks with the gap between right over the pan, but you got to look good to find em. Also notice the grass and leaves pulled in towards the pan on each side at the jaws edge. All to get the cat centered. Set is square in the middle of the trail so cat travels right to the pan.

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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2015, 01:44 
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WC you mentioned a fired trap and fethers what are you running for pan tension we run 3 to 4 pounds for cats to prevent premature trap firing and possible miss catch other than that I think amac pretty much coverd it good luck

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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2015, 06:43 
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Here is some current sets. Notice the brush blocking, the mound debris piles on each side, as well as the two guide sticks. All of it points the cat right to the pan. Pan is centered in the trail right in the cats way. Lure goes right along the base of the debris piles next to the trap down low. I have deer problems is why I have the brush jump sticks over the one.

Set 1
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Hand to show scale

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Set 2,,,very similar, like all my sets

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Hope you get you some like these!

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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2015, 09:38 
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Yes i hope so! Thanks for the great pictures! I will get to work on them. How long do you leave a set if you are not seeing any activity?

Do you always have to have the pan uncovered?


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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2015, 10:36 
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No you dont have to leave the pan bare but it sure helps. If i know a cat is there i leave them until i catch it.

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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2015, 12:44 
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Amak wrote:
No you dont have to leave the pan bare but it sure helps. If i know a cat is there i leave them until i catch it.



I gotcha. Simple enough. Are there different baits or scents they are attracted to later in the season?


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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2015, 20:45 
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Wildcat Trapper wrote:
Amak wrote:
No you dont have to leave the pan bare but it sure helps. If i know a cat is there i leave them until i catch it.



I gotcha. Simple enough. Are there different baits or scents they are attracted to later in the season?



I use the same variety of lures and smells pretty much from Dec 1-Feb 15. With cats, trap placement is much more important then lure types used. Drawing a cat to the set is difficult and chancy. Trap should catch the cat without lures or baits if you are set correctly. Ive taken a number of cats in blind sets. I do still use lure and baits though. You basically want to just stop the cat or make it slow down to sniff around on lures. Dont use them to draw the cat.The baits tend to be a tad more effective for females where with toms lures tend to do a better job. I put down at least 4 smells of different type along the set area to give it reason to ease through the whole set area sniffing the different smells. Here is a list of bait types and lure types that i use or have used pretty steady for several years now. I make most of mine now but i bought it all at one time.

Baits- Any fishy smelling bait, any bait with castor or tonquin. Id recommend Grawe brand baits designed for cats if you are going to buy it.

Lure ingredients to watch for-Skunk essense, bobcat gland lure, beaver castor, coyote/fox/bobcat urine(it all works on cats).

Here are some great over the counter cat lures ive used with success. (Gland lure in any of the top brands will work.)
Milligan brand- steppin wolf (skunky), Cat man do(skunk, castor)
Fur Country Lures- Badlands Bob(skunky) Tom cat (gland, skunk) Pride Rock (castor)

If i were to choose the 2 best it would be Badlands Bob, and Cat Man Do.

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PostPosted: 28 Jan 2015, 00:40 
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I've used that Badlands Bob lure for several years and like it pretty well. There was a feller on WAT called Big Moo, he sent me some lures that he was making and one was called Scratchin post. It was castor based and it smelled WONDERFUL! I'm not sure if the cats liked it as much as I did, but I caught them in sets it was at. Dang that stuff smelled good! :lol: I had an addiction to it for a while, now I'm out of it and am in a state of permanent withdrawls.

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PostPosted: 28 Jan 2015, 03:25 
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Like Mo said Badlands Bob does work, even here in eastern ky. Instead of trying lures from world round i've always found it best to use a local food source. A cat that roams the hills doesn't really care about beav smells. Same as cats that roam shore lines don't care about deer. Curious. sure. Give them something they like and know. 1/4 castor sack 1/4 oil gland and some fresh meat (dependent on locale). Castor and oil for curiosity but meat for commitment. Near water? Add another set but loaded with fish oil and castor/white meat.


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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2015, 22:13 
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I am not a cat expert, but I use O Gorman's Powder River cat bait and Dobbins Purrfect. I always cover my pans, and run about 3.5 lbs pan tension on them.


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