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Notice: The Wild-About-Trapping
forums and Message Boards are up and running better than ever! Click
the link above to become a member of one of the fastest growing trapping
communities in cyberspace. How to dye and wax your traps Steps for dyeing (with logwood dye) and waxing your traps. DYEING: 1. Wash all traps thoroughly with soapy water to remove factory grease or odors from a previous season. Rinse Well. For extremely rusty traps, take a steel wire brush to them lightly, or let them sit in vinegar overnight. 2. Leave them exposed outside for a week to allow a light coating of rust to return. 3. Add one pound of Logwood Dye to three to five gallons of water. One pound of logwood dye will easilly dye a couple dozen traps. I tend to buy it by five pounds and add it to ten gallons of water. This makes the dye a little thick, but it lasts longer and does more traps. Dye can be kept and used again over the course of a week or so if you can't do all of your traps in one day, and can be used as long as it doesn't mold. Bring to a rolling boil. 4. Turn down the heat to a low simmer. Make sure that you have a
'heat brick' on the bottom of your pot to prevent traps from resting
directly on the bottom. Direct contact with heat can weaken metal
springs. Lower your traps into the dye, and allow to simmer for one hour.
Read
the whole article here. Dirt Hole Set - Ticket to Canine Success The dirt hole set has probably caught more fox and coyote than all other sets combined. A properly made dirt hole set can catch every canine that passes, but the secret is learning how to make a good one. The first step is to put your set location in an area inhabited by fox or coyote. In wooded areas, look for your set location near trails that cross. In farm country, locate where fence rows meet, near rock piles and old farms. Anywhere mice and other rodents are abundant or an open area is nearby will work also. The set location should be in an area that's open at least 20 or 30 yards in all directions and relatively flat. Gray fox don't mind sets in thickets, but red fox and coyote are too suspicious if set is not in the open. Clean equipment is a necessity. At a very minimum, clean traps and
equipment free of factory oil, rust and dirt. Preferably, dye and wax
your traps and understand it's best to get your traps out before the
deep freezes and heavy snows. Click
here to read the article. Opossums are people too Opossums are, in my opinion, the easiest animals to trap, they are fairly slow and if you approach them quickly, they play dead. This is an amazing reaction to fear. Instinctively they understand that most predators will only eat live animals. When opossums feel threatened, they will fall over, their eyes will gloss over and they produce an odor from their mouths that smells like a decaying carcass. This is a very effective self preservation tactic that works well in the wild, however, Trapper Ron is never fooled. Sometimes the situation calls for a caring touch as in the case of
one call I received. Not only for the animals but for the people that
fear them. I was in between calls when I received a frantic call from a
woman who said that there was an animal in her bath tub. She had no idea
what it was other than it was white and looked like a large rat. I
assumed it to be an opossum. She told me that price was not an option
and that I needed to get there right now. I just happened to be in the
area so I headed her way. Click
here to read the article. Destroying the Myth Have you heard of Destroying the Myth? The National Trappers Association's video, Destroying the Myth, explodes the heart of the anti-trapping strategy by exposing it as false. This video speaks eloquently for itself to each and every viewer. If you have dial-up internet access, we recommend you right click on the above link, and save the file to your computer for later viewing. |
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