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 Post subject: buckmasters btr
PostPosted: 02 May 2007, 19:26 
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Hey what do you guys and gals think about this bow
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product. ... id=3946747
do you think it is a good deal? I have searched the web and most people said it was a good bow. thanks

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PostPosted: 02 May 2007, 19:52 
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well i cant say much for advice, but if it has what fits you, then thats the bow for you, check out the armlenght, letoff, and weight it has, anymore all bows are really good, its just the name brand your paying for like Mathews, Hoyt, Fred Bear, ect....


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PostPosted: 04 May 2007, 10:51 
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I'd be very cautious of buying any bow with "split limbs". My brother-in-law owns an archery shop and states that these type of bows are repeat business for repair. Some of the issues he experiences are: continued out of balance problems, cracks in the limbs, repeat tuning, etc. I am not saying don't buy it - just making you aware of such existing problems others have had. Jeff shops religiously at Wal-Mart (for the out of season sales). While he & my sister may purchase thousands of dollars worth of goods, bows & arrows are not something he invests in through this merchant. Even though he could get them at rock bottom prices and double his money when sold during hunting season, he says that just isn't good business. He'd rather have repeat happy customers back for additional supplies, rather than dissatisfied customers with complaints. Actually, I just bought a Forge bow from him last week. A bit different than the High Country or the Oneida bows I have used in the past but it was economical and suits my hunting needs perfectly. At 65 lbs pull and the 30" aluminum arrows , I am in the neighborhood of 324 ft per sec. That is what I generally hunt with. Already looking forward to hunting season.
I wish you best on your choice of bow. Look at this purchase as you would be choosing a good friend. Their are many acquaintances out there but true friends can be counted on one hand. And that one friend,,,, well, you wouldn't trade him in for the world.


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PostPosted: 04 May 2007, 17:34 
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thanks for the advice

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 04 May 2007, 19:39 
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You are quite welcome. I want to clarify the above a bit more. When I say that "split limbs" are having difficulties, I should have said the less expensive ones are ones to be careful with. I had a High Country "split limb" and very little problems with it. What do I classify as less expensive? Any bow that is selling new for less than $250-300 stripped. Meaning, without sight, arrow rest, quiver, etc. Remember, I am speaking solely of the "split limb" versions. You can certainly buy a very good new bow stripped or partially equipped for under $300. Now is a good time to look for a reasonable bow. Don't give up and please feel free to email or pm me if you find another and have questions.


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PostPosted: 04 May 2007, 20:02 
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I went ahead and bought the bow. I have never gone bow hunting before and I just want to try it out. so I did not want to spend a whole lot of money on a bow just starting out. but if I do want to continue it and get more serous about it I will definitely buy a better bow. and thanks again for all your help

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 04 May 2007, 20:53 
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You bet ,, and thanks for your honesty. Be sure to get the correct arrows. It is important to know (or at least the archery shop who sells them to you), the limit on your arrow's spine. Most shops have a chart for this and it is rare for an individual to know it without the use of such. Here's the best tip I could give any bow hunter: Even the best, most expensive bow will not make the novice archer an expert shooter. I'd rather see someone like you purchase a less expensive bow and get so good with practice, that your first real shot is a lethal kill. A deer that hangs proudly and pics of this lesser bow with the skilled archer (you). We'll have to exchange pics of bows sometime - possibly pics of our fall hunt as well. Cheers - Randy


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PostPosted: 04 May 2007, 22:14 
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If I get a deer this season I will be sure to show you. and I hope it comes in time so I can get some practice in and maybe take a turkey before the season ends

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PostPosted: 12 May 2007, 21:56 
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I got the bow just a few days ago and went to the scheels sporting goods store by my house and they set it up for free. then I went to a friends house to shoot it and it shot like a dream. it was amazing for just $200. right now I am working on pulling it back smoothly. What kind of broadheads should I buy 100gr. or 125gr.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 13 May 2007, 11:27 
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I am partial to the thunderhead - 3 blade, 100 gr. The tips & blades are super strong. They have made numerous elk kills for me. I also, like the 100 grain weight because the arrow flies more true and it's lighter - giving me more speed. After you get a good shooting group on a target and feel real confident, begin shooting with the clothing you'll wear on the day of the hunt. Example: deer & elk season will host cooler temps., sometimes near freezing. Put on that hunting jacket, camo hat, fingerless gloves, heck pants & face paint. Now shoot and get confident with this. One step better, make shots in the sitting, kneeling, standing to one side of a tree or shoot through a narrow area (tree branches surrounding your target). Lastly, get involved in some archery shoots that display 3D wooded hunts. All this will make you the best archer you can be.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 13 May 2007, 12:31 
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again, thanks for all your help

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 15 May 2007, 06:20 
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I too shoot the thunder head except in the 125. nutz gave you is very sound advice...If you hunt from a tree stand I recommend practicing from a elevated position just to get use to shooting from off the ground.a 200 0r 300 dollar bow will kill them just as dead as a 7oo dollar bow.This up coming season will be my 33third and I've never regretted taking up archery I have not killed a deer with a gun in 30 years. it is addictive...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 21 May 2007, 10:20 
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I began hunting with the 125 gr. and did like the extra cutting edge. There is nothing wrong with that type or I would not have used it. As I mentioned, it is a choice of preference and what you desire out of your equipment. In my case I accepted a little loss of cutting edge for better penetration. Whatever the grain of broad head, be sure you stay away from mechanical types. These are blades that open up on impact. Though they fly similar as a field tip (this is why many choose it), I have actually seen these arrow tips make a hit on a game animal and not open up. Without a cutting edge, this animal was not recovered due to the closure of the wound. On larger game such as elk, they have simply bounced off the animal if the tip connected with a rib or bone. It is my opinion that those that rely on this type of broad head for its flight only, do so because of pure laziness. Practice makes perfect and if you lack in shooting performance, you should not rely on a "sub-par" arrow head to compensate. You owe it to the game you seek and to all hunters in the field with good sporting ethics.
Congrats Chieftain on your dedication and preservation to this unique sport. It is archers like you that make me proud to say we are a special breed. Very addictive!!


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