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PostPosted: 26 Oct 2015, 22:45 
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I am a new trapper with lil knowledge of it. And I was was going to ask for some tips and suggestions that could help me get more furs. Im going to use 5/64 cable with a relaxing lock. Thats really all I know so far, I don't know what else to buy so anything will help. I am going to order all of this stuff in a couple of days so please resopond quickly.


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PostPosted: 27 Oct 2015, 07:56 
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Slim has the answers .. http://www.slimpedersen.com/ save the link, you'll find it very useful

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PostPosted: 27 Oct 2015, 16:27 
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It varies as to what each trapper would say you need. If it were me, id still have to get #11 trapping wire for my support, support collars, extra cable for snare extensions, some aluminum double ferrals, and possibly some kind of solid stakes unless you can tie off to trees or a heavy drag. I like wolf fangs for snares if i have to stake. I dont know your laws so check em to know whats legal. If legal id far prefer camlocs over the relaxaloc. Dont know what else to say really,,,, your info and question is kinda vague.

As far as more fur, there is no big secret or magic formula. Bottom line is, you must know in good detail the habits, habitat, travelways, prey, social behavior interactions, etc...of the target animal in order to capitalize on those points. Then set up in high animal percentage areas, like funnels. Funnels are great, but not if the animal has no reason to use one...so first ingredient there must be animals. Then its a matter of duplicating that same thing, over and over again to your hearts content. I wouldnt expect any decent take with less then 3 dozen snares standing alone. I personally would lay steel as well.

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PostPosted: 27 Oct 2015, 19:24 
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Well found out I need deer stops, and it must be a single piece lock. And what at I meant by my question is what things do I need on/for my snares.


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PostPosted: 27 Oct 2015, 20:39 
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Location: venango co,pa
what state you in?

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PostPosted: 27 Oct 2015, 20:56 
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Arkansas


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PostPosted: 27 Oct 2015, 21:18 
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Location: west virginia
welcome to the site . What critters are you targeting ?

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PostPosted: 27 Oct 2015, 21:44 
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Mostly raccoons, bobcats, coyotes, foxes and if I find a good creek mink

and thank you


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PostPosted: 30 Oct 2015, 16:49 
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Joined: 13 Dec 2011, 16:50
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A tip I have is, no trap/snare will catch anything hanging in your shed. Just go out and set them where you think is good from what you've learned.

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PostPosted: 30 Oct 2015, 17:32 
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THE LAST WORD
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Joined: 14 Mar 2008, 20:20
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Location: west virginia
we are required to have deer stops also. I've always used washer locks with good success on fox, coon , and coyote. Never snared a mink.

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"Take ye heed,watch and pray: for ye know not when the time is".

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PostPosted: 31 Oct 2015, 06:46 
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A common recommendation I used was to boil snares in baking soda. I have since read an article by a noted snareman stating that is bad advice. He claims that the moisture can get into the cable and stay there causing corrosion. If you simply age your snares (which you might not have time to do this year) they will loose that shiny appearance. Others have said that they boil their snares and have no problems. Just an issue to be aware of. I would say that they best bet is to make sure you are complying with the regs in your state and just get out and set some snares. You will learn over time what fits your style and method of trapping in your area. When I first started, I just used no. 11 wire doubled over and formed into a pigtail. Then I attached the support wire to a small sapling tree along trails, wrapping my snare swivel in the ends when I wrapped it up. Using this method, my snares literally hung from the support. Many others use whammys and a heavier support wire, not wrapped in a pigtail, with an anchor. I thought my method was kinda lame, so I started using whammys, no anchors, and no. 9 wire for support, and situating my snares so they didn't hang...its hard to describe. I never had so many problems missing critters! I have found that the pigtail works better for the situations I like to snare. Get out there and set some stuff, and don't be afraid to change and experiment.

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PostPosted: 31 Oct 2015, 16:42 
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here's something else I do when I set snares camocole. No matter what I'm trying to snare, I will push a small stick or twig in the ground directly under the snare, sticking up 3 or 4 inches, depending upon what I'm trying to snare and how high the snare is off the ground. The purpose is to keep critters from trying to duck under the snare.

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Those who trade liberty for security shall have neither.

"Take ye heed,watch and pray: for ye know not when the time is".

Rev. 6:8 and behold a pale horse: and his name that sat on him was death , and Hell followed with him.


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PostPosted: 02 Nov 2015, 11:05 
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doc9013 wrote:
here's something else I do when I set snares camocole. No matter what I'm trying to snare


Doc, I was the same way...religious on using chin up sticks. I never had any probs doing so with canines, however I believe them to be problematic with snaring bobcats. For several years, I had delt with more hip/body catches then by the neck, along with misses, and couldn't put my finger on the problem. I tryed everything (including loading, multiple lock changes, overhead duck under blocking, smaller loops, you name it..)that I could think of and nothing seemed to help. Finally 2 years ago mid to late season, it dawned on me. Those cats were attempting to jump through the loops, not crawling through like id always thought. I went back to my original snare settings and measurements but stayed with camlocs. The only thing different I did was to leave off the chin up sticks, and in fact made certain it was sparkling clean under the loop. Since then have snared 15 straight bobcats by the neck and all were DOA. I no longer use them on canines either, but I had no issues using the sticks on the canines before, so its of no or little negative consequences on them (canines), and i feel are just fine to use if desired on that application.

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PostPosted: 02 Nov 2015, 19:19 
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Joined: 28 Jan 2011, 16:07
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Location: northwestern Ontario
My opinion on chin stick is that when any animal is close to bait his nose is not to ground but his eyes are focused on what is in front of him there for the head is up. Not saying they don't work as they do but only in certain circumstances. Over the years I have learned that chin sticks can interfere at times or have a refusal. Best results when snaring is to keep things simple and plain. If you miss then you know some times the animal has to win.


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