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PostPosted: 17 Jan 2007, 13:03 
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Trapper
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Joined: 06 Dec 2006, 14:20
Posts: 21
Location: SW Ohio
I sell most of my fur in the round as this is only my second year trapping. The guy I sell them to told me not to skin anymore last year after I brought the first few in, they were kind of bad and he is particular. But, I have kept back some this year and I am trying to skin, flesh and dry them myself.

The coons I did turned greasy but they are kind of stiff. I though I had all of the fat, but maybe not. Is there something I can do to fix them or do they need more time? The muskrats look ok. The rest are still in the freezer. I haven't tried the foxes or weasels yet. I have turned the grinners loose as no one wants them around here.


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 Post subject: greasy coons
PostPosted: 17 Jan 2007, 13:40 
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Trapper
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Joined: 07 Jan 2007, 10:18
Posts: 224
Location: warsaw, indiana
I don't know how much you want to spend but I use a degreaser from VanDykes taxidermy when I tan my hides. I have also heard that a small amount of Dawn Dish soap works real well too.


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PostPosted: 17 Jan 2007, 14:36 
When you properly flesh a coon, as it's drying, it will 'sweat' grease. Every day or two, I go down and wipe the hides with a balled up piece of rag. After a week or so, they stop sweating. It's normal.


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PostPosted: 17 Jan 2007, 14:45 
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Trapper
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Joined: 22 Dec 2006, 13:50
Posts: 230
Location: Central Indiana
Putting-up coon requires a good fleshing knife, like a Necker, which has a sharp-side. The sharp side is required to shave the grissle off on the upper shoulders.

Begin by brushing the dirt & burrs out of the fur. If it's muddy, hose it off. Skin it, and if it was muddy, hose it off again & squeeze the water out of it. Hang by the nose overnight to dry (fur-out).

Put it in the fridge for a day, or in the freezer for 20-30 minutes (but don't let it freeze), this will thicken the fat so it won't be "runny".

Put it on the beam, and flesh the tail, and the botton 5-6" all the way around the pelt. Now go back up to the back of the head & start shavint the grissle from the back of the ears, down to the shoulders, then flip your fleshing knife & try the dull side to push the fat off. If needed switch back to the sharp-side. The rest can be scraped with the dull-side. Watch the teets on a female as they'll "catch" on your knife & can tear.

Once you flesh down to where you initially fleshed (5-6" up), the large anounts of fat won't be clinging to the fur on the bottom of the pelt or tail. It will quickly fall off the beam.

Put it on your stretcher (lol, wood looks better...I don't care what anyone says :wink: ), and hang it nose down. This will prevent the grease that will seep-out from collecting on the tail. Wipe it off every couple days with old newspaper to absorb the grease.

All I mentioned will assist in keeping the oil/grease out of the tail & bottom edge of the pelt, which to me looks alot better than an oily-matted mess.

Smitty

_________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention
of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved
body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used
up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming-WOW-What
a Ride"


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PostPosted: 17 Jan 2007, 19:17 
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Trapper
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Joined: 12 Jan 2007, 15:40
Posts: 164
Location: SE, Alaska
Never thought about the freezer aspect. Interesting. I use an oil absorbing towel to dab up the few drops of oil on my mink and otters, but the fleshing gets most of it. Fleshing w/o a beam does not push out the oil like using a beam does.

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PostPosted: 18 Jan 2007, 07:46 
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Trapper
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Joined: 06 Dec 2006, 14:20
Posts: 21
Location: SW Ohio
Thanks for the info. I will wipe them down and see how it goes.

Smitty, you said not to let them freeze. I put a couple in the frezer a week ago and it sounds like I shouldn't have. Should I do anything special with them or just let them thaw in the barn for a day or two?


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PostPosted: 18 Jan 2007, 10:33 
That's not what Smitty meant (I think). It's fine to freeze your coon, and even your skinned pelts, inbetween fleshing. What he meant (I think), is that the fat fleshes easier when it's chilled, but not frozen. If you have frozen the whole animal, you need to let it completely thaw before you skin it or you'll cut a hole in the hide. If you've frozen the pelt after skinning for fleshing at a later date (I do this sometimes because it's cold outside...) then you need to let it thaw a little, to the point where it's flimsy to the touch, but the fat hasn't gone liquidy on ya.

The chilled fat coagulates and is easier to push off the hide.


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PostPosted: 18 Jan 2007, 13:03 
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Trapper
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Joined: 06 Dec 2006, 14:20
Posts: 21
Location: SW Ohio
Thanks again Lil Bit.


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PostPosted: 18 Jan 2007, 13:36 
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HATCHET MAN
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Joined: 30 Aug 2006, 10:13
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Location: The Withers of Wisconsin
kmp wrote:
Thanks again Lil Bit.


That girl is amazing isn't she? :D No matter what Smitty says. :D :D :twisted: :twisted:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 18 Jan 2007, 14:18 
:oops: :D


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PostPosted: 18 Jan 2007, 14:52 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 22 Dec 2006, 13:50
Posts: 230
Location: Central Indiana
lol....for once, we agree :lol:

Forgot to mention, I also use a "hooked" blade in a utility knife to make the opening leg-cuts........quick & easy!

Smitty

_________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention
of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved
body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used
up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming-WOW-What
a Ride"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 18 Jan 2007, 14:57 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 14:18
Posts: 143
Location: Central IL
smittystrapmods wrote:

Forgot to mention, I also use a "hooked" blade in a utility knife to make the opening leg-cuts........quick & easy!

Smitty


The kind you would use for cutting shingles?

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PostPosted: 18 Jan 2007, 15:02 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 22 Dec 2006, 13:50
Posts: 230
Location: Central Indiana
Yep!

Smitty

_________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention
of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved
body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used
up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming-WOW-What
a Ride"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 18 Jan 2007, 15:03 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 14:18
Posts: 143
Location: Central IL
Wow....great idea and with the price of blades you always have a sharp knife

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 18 Jan 2007, 15:27 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 04 Jan 2007, 19:34
Posts: 136
Location: Milroy PA
i shin all my critters with one of those razor bladed pocket knife does a great job and if it get dull you just slip another blade in so simple and fast always sharp


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 18 Jan 2007, 18:26 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 22 Dec 2006, 13:50
Posts: 230
Location: Central Indiana
Bowhunter-turned-trapper? wrote:
Wow....great idea and with the price of blades you always have a sharp knife


Not only that, but you won't have the tip of the knive cutting too deep.

Smitty

_________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention
of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved
body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used
up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming-WOW-What
a Ride"


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