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PostPosted: 28 Apr 2009, 11:06 
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Location: Harford county,Maryland
first is to choose a location at this spot there a slide and a tree they've been eating on
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the tree is behind the bucket , the slide is in front
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then using a #4 longspring( the trap in the set is a #3 ,I grabbed the wrong 1)#4 is the smallest i would use but have been told #3's work too.This bank is rather steep so i cut into the bank and dug in and down at a slight angle so the back of the whole is lower than the front. The purpose of the angle is so when the beaver swims in he bumps the dirt and the jaw and puts his feet down and starts to climb and doesn't set the trap off the it's chest
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this set is on a drowning rig , trap is attached to a 8' cable with a sliding lock anchored at 1 end by a 5 ' metal pole( the bottom is soft so i need a longer pole to secure it i have not noticed any difference between using wood or metal , the beavers seeem to pay no attention to it)the other end of the cable has a feed bag that i fill at the set ( weight reduction)
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next add some fenceing, and mud pile ,and if johnney sneakem's around some camo to blend it in
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THESE SETS ARE MADE AT LOW TIDE AND SHOULD BE PLACED JUST BELOW THE WATER LINE when the tide comes in these will be under water so if you have changing water levels try to set it for the evening water level
this next set is at the same location except im going to set 4' to to right of the slide between the tree and the water .Its using a trap equal to a mb-750 (i dont know who made this one,it reg. lam.,with the paws-I i think). THis set will require alot more fenceing since I want to change where the beaver is exiting the water . first choose spot for trap and anchor . its the same drowning rig as above .then i use "poker" sticks in front of the trap to make the beaver stop swimming and walk you can also use the sticks to help stabalize the trap
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then I fenced both sides so the easiest spot to exit was at the trap
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next make a scent or castor mound
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then camo the trap if needed ( its not needed for the beaver, only people) add scent if you want
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the finished set
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1 more set at different location useing same set as 2nd one. first location and equipment
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next set trap with pokers and anchor with drowning rig
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fence as needed add mound, finished!
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hope this helps,hope i didn't miss anything Steve

ok i missed something important When setting the traps into place place trap so the jaws close from the side not front toback ,dog to the side!!! the last pic is taken at a bad angle but the approach is from the right of the pic it has a shallow channel you cant see in the pic .i caught 2 beavers each in both of the last 2 sets good luck steve


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PostPosted: 28 Apr 2009, 14:02 
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Thanks. Looks good. :D

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Skunk 1 (in a bag)


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PostPosted: 28 Apr 2009, 14:16 
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Thanks Trapper Steve that is an awsome post, one for the arkives. I am going to borrow a few of the things you showed and use them on my line for sure. Thanks :D

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PostPosted: 28 Apr 2009, 14:45 
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Thanks for the pictures.....that always makes it more understandable (to me).

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PostPosted: 28 Apr 2009, 18:02 
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Thanks Steve! Thanks to you with great informative posts like this is why I've learned so much from this site. Those look like some awesome sets. Thanks for going through the work of putting this together. Just one question, do you ever have any trouble with the beavers knocking those poker sticks into the trap?


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PostPosted: 28 Apr 2009, 19:43 
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No Gush, those sticks are rather small and should be pushed in close to the same height as the jaw of the trap. That way they can't get knocked over into it. They are more like little spears.

Thanks everyone,

Steve

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PostPosted: 28 Apr 2009, 20:20 
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No thank you for the awesome pics!


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PostPosted: 29 Apr 2009, 17:13 
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Great... now I'm already thinking about October...... :roll:

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My left index and middle finger in a 110
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PostPosted: 01 May 2009, 21:09 
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Great post steve!!!


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PostPosted: 01 May 2009, 22:23 
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thanks for the awesome pic :D im hoping to start some beaver trapping pretty soon and it sure does help to have pictures with instructions. i have only coon trapped with coil spring traps, is coil spring good to use for beaver trapping, or is long spring better :?: :?: :?:


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PostPosted: 02 May 2009, 03:14 
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Location: Harford county,Maryland
Lance, don't think 1is better than the other , just which ever you like( or have) I like the coils better cause that's what I have most of and think it's easier to get the trap bedded with the springs out of the way. But the longsprings have proven themselves on the line for many years. 1 big difference is with the longsprings , I don't need a set tool, with the coils they're a must ( at least with the mb-750's)

I'm pretty sure that if I had equal numbers of each, I'd be useing them all without any concern as to which trap would catch more, good luck, TS


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PostPosted: 04 May 2009, 12:09 
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Steve:
Great post! I never did figure out how to forward your PM with the pics intact. That coilspring you have pictured looks like a C.D.R. How do you like it compared to the MB-750? I had someone recommend the CDR's to me over the MB-750's because he said it was safer to work with the CDR because it had a free jaw. He also liked the Paws-I-Trip pan (comes standard with the CDR).


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