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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2006, 14:27 
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Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 14:18
Posts: 143
Location: Central IL
I am sure you guys see this all of the time, but I am going to do it anyway. I am 25 and besides live traps in my yard, have never trapped in my life. I am getting into it with another guy I know who has the same amount of experience as I do. I did get a chance to go to the traps4kids website and get some good info as well as getting some tips from this site. I have gotten an offer from a CPO friend of mine to get as much property as I want to trap. He has an area that I can go take a lot or rats and beaver from. I think I will try to stick to just rats and beaver in that area, and coyotes on my deer hunting property. I only plan on starting out with a minimal amount of sets so I don't get in over my head. It is VERY difficult to get an education course in my area, let alone in IL, so I will turn to the internet for some help. I think I have the land sets down, or at least down enough to know what to do, but I am having a hard time understanding the water sets. I know the intent on these is to drown the animal, but what actually causes the animal to be held under the water if the trap is in shallow water. I know the traps are anchored in deeper water, but can't the animal just swin to the surface to get air? Any help on this and anything else would be greatly appreciated.
Jason


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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2006, 15:31 
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Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 13:32
Posts: 2
what you want to do is make a drowner. take some heavy trapping wire and tie it to a big rock or a feed sack full of rocks and toss it into deep water. now put the other end of the wire through your drowner lock on your trap so the trap will easilt slide into the water but not out. now anchor the trap end of the wire to shore, and set your trap, bait and whatever else you need to. the critter will be dead in the water.


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 Post subject: shallow water drowning
PostPosted: 13 Dec 2006, 15:47 
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Forum not-so-Newbie

Joined: 10 Dec 2006, 09:59
Posts: 17
if you have rats and beaver in shallow water you can easily channel them into bodygrip traps with strategically placed sticks poked in the mud to guide them into the trap or a dive stick to make them dive into the trap. if footholds are your only option make a drowning wire with the bottom end staked securely in the deepest pocket of water you have, when the trapped critter reaches the end of the wire, it wraps around the stake and drowns. Good luck and be safe :wink:


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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2006, 16:10 
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Trapper
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Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 14:18
Posts: 143
Location: Central IL
snaringamerica wrote:
what you want to do is make a drowner. take some heavy trapping wire and tie it to a big rock or a feed sack full of rocks and toss it into deep water. now put the other end of the wire through your drowner lock on your trap so the trap will easilt slide into the water but not out. now anchor the trap end of the wire to shore, and set your trap, bait and whatever else you need to. the critter will be dead in the water.


So basically what happens when I do this is the animal can slide down the trap (to the deeper water) but the "drowner lock" keeps it from sliding back to shallow water?

Also, thank you both for helping me out. I plan on getting my license and traps this weekend and trying to get something set Saturday.

One more thing. We just had 12-14 inches of snow melt, and the ground everywhere is VERY muddy. Will this affect land sets?


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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2006, 20:08 
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Joined: 08 Dec 2006, 17:07
Posts: 186
Location: upstate ny
your understanding of the drowning lock is correct.

2nd, the muddy soil does effect land sets especially if you haven't made them yet. Tghe key to covering a set well is making iit blend in, which can ussually be accomplished by using a sifter to put dirt back on top of it, place a few leaves and whala! With muddy dirt you can't sift it on so you now have a problem. One option is to find dry dirt, sift it on, and then wet it when it is how you want it to blend in. Just be sure to use a good pan cover or something to keep the mud from sliding under your pan, and then getting hard when it dries making your trap inoperable. Also, be careful of freeze ups when your bedding and covering dirt is wet, as that will also freeze your trap and make it not work. Hope that helps.

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trapping is the life blood of the outdoors
fox-1
yote-0
weasel-1
rats-46
Mink-
coon-3
Skunk!-1
Misc- 4
grinners-8
otter-1
Beaver-9


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 13 Dec 2006, 23:09 
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Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 22:41
Posts: 145
Location: Michigan
also ive heard that the weight of the trap actually is heavy enough to drown the animal, but im not sure if thats rite, all i do is put my traps in sum shallow water and leave about 1" on the top and throw heavy weight in deep water and it seem to work. but ive only done this for muskrats. also a good set my old gramps told me when i was a kid and it is really productive is to look for a steep bank( this is for muskrats) with a nice flat spot of mud or anything that isnt to weedy and should be about 3" deep or enough for the rat to walk instead of swim. and the last thing you want for this set is a nice straight dropoff from the flat spot down in some deep water where the rat will drown.then what i would use is a #1 or 1 1/2 coil or long right on the bank. so when your done setting it right on the flat spot, take some smooth wire and poke it into an fresh apple, now i slice my apple right in half to make it more appetising but its up to you. then when youve got the wire poked in the apple. stick the other end into the bank so it dont drift away. then all you do is position it right on top of the legtrap so its floating just above it. so when the rat comes up to take a bite out of it, it will step on the trap in order to get the apple. it is a good setup for muskrats if your using footraps. and u dont need any drowner setup for it because almost always rats dive for deepwater when they step in a trap and the weight of the trap on its leg prevents it from surfacing so its a really productive set and you should try it some time


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2006, 09:13 
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Trapper
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Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 14:18
Posts: 143
Location: Central IL
Thank you all for your help. I am curious as to how much some of you are getting for muskrat pelts. My CPO buddy was telling me that the market for them was very well this year and they were getting right around $10 a piece for them. That seems kinda high, but what do I know, I am just a bow hunter :twisted:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2006, 15:21 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 14:18
Posts: 143
Location: Central IL
One more question for now...

I am going to buy my supplies tomorrow. I am wanting to keep the number of traps around 6 or so. I would like to have 2 for coyotes, 2 for possums, and 2 for muskrats. What would be the best traps to buy for these animals, and what else should I get? I am trying to keep he price down for right now due to Christmas coming.

Any help would be appreciated.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2006, 15:33 
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Trapper
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Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 22:41
Posts: 145
Location: Michigan
well for muskrats i would use 110 conibears because they are so productive when you set them in muskrat runs so i would use them. opposums i would probally use a #1 1/2 coil spring trap since there a little easier to set and i really cant tell you what to use for coyote trapping because ive never did it before so cant help you on that, sorry


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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2006, 15:49 
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Trapper
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Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 22:41
Posts: 145
Location: Michigan
Also another good way that works for possoms and coons is to get a 220 Conibear, a 5 gallon pail, and some bait, id recommend sardines since they work well, then cut out knotches right on the lid of the 5 gallon pail for the 220 to set in, so put your sardines right in the back of the pail, then set your 220 right in the knotches. then when youve done that get some short chain or wire and wrap it around 2 stakes and crosstake them or just get a cinderblock or heavy weights that works also, so when the coon or possom walks in the pail for the bait, the 220 will kill it right at the entrance of the pail. its a cheap and productive set


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2006, 16:23 
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Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 14:18
Posts: 143
Location: Central IL
So the conibears are always going to kill the animal?
If I use a leg-hold, what is the best way to kil the animal quickly without hurting the pelt?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2006, 17:57 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 22:41
Posts: 145
Location: Michigan
Almost always conibears kill the animal when you set it right, since it goes in a scissor like action, it either breaks the animals neck but usually just strangles the animal until it dies. a good way to kill the animal is to take a large pipe or stick that should be kind of heavy and smash it over the head of the animal so it stuns it and then it should be stunned and then just step over the chest to strangle it, or you can take a .22 and shoot it in the head to


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2006, 21:20 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 08 Dec 2006, 17:07
Posts: 186
Location: upstate ny
head shots make me nervous because i have read that the greatest concertraion of rabies in an effected animal is in the cerebral spinal fluid. So the article reccomended making a frontal chest shot. One hole, and no contact with CSF. Somehting to think about. I prefer the club method even though i carry a walther P22 just in case one is real fiesty

_________________
trapping is the life blood of the outdoors
fox-1
yote-0
weasel-1
rats-46
Mink-
coon-3
Skunk!-1
Misc- 4
grinners-8
otter-1
Beaver-9


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2006, 23:32 
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Experienced Forum User

Joined: 09 Dec 2006, 00:25
Posts: 271
Location: champaign Ill
A LITTLE LEAGUE BALL BAT IS GRRREEEAAAT NO SHARP EDGES, IN CASE
YA GIT CARRIED WAY WITH YER KILLIN, (WON'T CUT THE PELT)
IT'S LIGHTER THAN A PIPE.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2006, 23:33 
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Experienced Forum User
Experienced Forum User

Joined: 09 Dec 2006, 00:25
Posts: 271
Location: champaign Ill
BY THE WAY WHERE YA AT IN ILL I'M AN ILL BOY TOO
VILLA GROVE IL.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 15 Dec 2006, 09:14 
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Trapper
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Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 14:18
Posts: 143
Location: Central IL
It just so happens that I have 2 girls in softball, so the bat idea will probably work best for me.

I live near Peoria Mike


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 15 Dec 2006, 23:59 
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Joined: 09 Dec 2006, 00:25
Posts: 271
Location: champaign Ill
I'm partial to conibears 110's &220's. If ya use the little ones for rats,
trapping drainage ditches stich 1 in dry tiles, make sure you use a steel
steak, ya could pick up a coon I have caught coons & mink this way.
little trap - little tile big trap big tile. bucket sets are great for coons, dead falls & 220's where coons are workin I wire 1 side down to the tree to
stabilize the trap just 1 jaw you can block off the top like the guys say
but to me that's too much junk to carry & mess with. I love settin barns
with 220's put em in before season opens nailed down, let em get used to
runnin thru them then opening nite go kill coons, like fish in a barrel. Old dad taught me this 1. also another neat trick is tinfoil on the pan of a 1.5
long spring, suspended from a stout limb on a coon run on moonlit nites
curiosity will catch the coon, ya hang it so they have to stand up to
slap it & they will. he'll be standin there very upset or if he can get to a tree he'll be up a tree. but it only works on moonlit nites. I'm not new to trapping, been around it all my life, but just started trapping beavers this year. have picked up tons of good info here, they are timid creatures
learnin more bout them every day.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 16 Dec 2006, 16:40 
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Trapper
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Joined: 28 Sep 2006, 18:36
Posts: 117
Location: Plover, Wisconsin
Well, if you're going to trap possums, I think you're going to get a few coon. So be ready.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 16 Dec 2006, 20:44 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 15 Dec 2006, 18:23
Posts: 43
Location: sw missouri
Bryton wrote:
Well, if you're going to trap possums, I think you're going to ge t a few coon. So be ready.
for your first coon it sure looks like a dandy pardner1


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