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PostPosted: 08 Jun 2008, 19:40 
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Hi guys, im doin a little research to try and get into this trapping business and i was wondering what u thought would be good for coons. I saw there were coilsprings and longsprings. Which do u think would work better for coon? Or should i got a different route for traps? thanks for the help


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PostPosted: 08 Jun 2008, 20:40 
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I use nothing but the little number one stoploss and the number 11 double long spring...the stoploss I have helper spring's in those .

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PostPosted: 08 Jun 2008, 21:05 
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i perfer 1.5 coils just for the holding power that they have without doing damage to the paw and causing discomfort. i have had less pullouts with them than i did with longsprings. #11s are a good choice also but they have a smaller target area for the coon to step on. i never got my hands on the #1 Stop-Loss but i no people that swear by them.

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PostPosted: 08 Jun 2008, 21:21 
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alright that helps a lot..thanks..i was also wondeing if u could tell me what you guys are getting for pelts and where u sell them too..mine will mostly be fox, coon, and beaver, so i just want to know how much u sell them for and where too..thanks again..


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PostPosted: 08 Jun 2008, 21:32 
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i worked at a small fur house and we bought and then sold to auction. our prices were suprisingly close to those found in Fur-Fish-Game.

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PostPosted: 08 Jun 2008, 21:34 
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I prefer to use coilspring traps. I have used longsprings too, but I think that coilsprings are easier to put in place at a set. Long springs are larger and the springs are a hassle in my opinion. Also, I have had many pullouts with longsprings and many less with coilsprings. Coilsprings also close faster.


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PostPosted: 08 Jun 2008, 22:34 
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I think a lot of folks on here sell to NAFA (North American Fur Co.). If you subscribe to the F-F-G you can look in the back and it will give you a good idea what stuff goes for, but that price is for prime fur thats dried right. It will change some if your in the South like I am or if you have blue-ish or shot pelts.

Although I have limited experience w/ different types of traps, I like my coils. Ive heard that longs. are harder to be than coils, but then again, just what Ive heard.

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07-08 season
red fox: 4
grey fox: 9
yote: 1
coon: 17
skunk: 4
cottontail: 1
grinners: quit countin


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PostPosted: 08 Jun 2008, 22:50 
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All I used last year was coilsprings, just because that is all I had. I never did catch any coons last year but I did catch some possums and a skunk and they seemed to work great for those. I've already bought a few #11 longsprings to try for coon next year so I can see how well they work compared to the coilsprings. I don't have much experience but I think it just comes down to what you prefer for your situation.

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Coon: 5
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PostPosted: 09 Jun 2008, 05:21 
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well this is interesting ..I can't stand the 1 and half coil as a coon trap..to much room in the jaws' coons around here chew thier foot off between the pan and the bottom of the jaw's when closed and they are gone in a heart beat .I get [used to get till I switch 30 years ago] more chew out ,wring out and walk off's with the 1 and half coil's than any trap I ever used...I bet I ain't got 2 dozen of them anymore,got shed of them...but what ever work's for you..one thing I like best about the no.11 is the way it bed's ...for me bedding the no.11 in the soft river bottom make's for atrap that won't tip..won't slide won't move...the 1 stoploss I have only one complaint...the pan is small with the stoploss bar set in place you can't get the pan set on the dog as esay.if your laying a lot of steel down.speed and ease on the line become's an issue..if I'm setting 300 trap's out I want to be able to move on it..I can set more number 11 in a hour than I can the number one stoploss...don't get me wrong I think the no.1 stoploss was the greatest trap ever made for the water line...if it work's for you don't change it...

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PostPosted: 09 Jun 2008, 13:46 
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I cut little strips of 1/8 thich steel and double jawed all my 1 1/2 coils(not laminated).You talk about one coon catching machine.Bottom line,On dry land if a coon can get under the jaws he's going to chew.A good way to eliminate this is to run you're sets a day break or right before light.Animals fight a lot harder when it gets light. If thats not possible with you're schedule then set all drowning sets.

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07/08 season
67 coyotes
16 Bobcats
42 coons
11 Beaver
7 skunks
Never counted all the grinners but a lot!


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PostPosted: 09 Jun 2008, 17:05 
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I use both, cant say I have a complaint either way, most of my coon only sets involving footholds are drowners. I am currently working on getting my traps ready for season with some mods like KSCATMANS, I also always add an extra swivel to the chain.


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PostPosted: 09 Jun 2008, 17:13 
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alright this is looking better..i think im getting on the right path.. thanks for the help..somebody said the pelts are worth more if they dont have a bullet hole in them.??...how else do u kill them?? i know theres drowning but is that the only way? and how do u set a drowning rig for a coon?
thanks again


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PostPosted: 09 Jun 2008, 19:31 
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You can have a bullet hole. I think they count off for three holes -- small pelting slip, bullet, etc. Coons that the dog get a hold of bad and shot up pelts are the ones to worry about.

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07-08 season
red fox: 4
grey fox: 9
yote: 1
coon: 17
skunk: 4
cottontail: 1
grinners: quit countin


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PostPosted: 10 Jun 2008, 07:05 
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Location: SE Kansas
In 30 years I've never been docked for a single bullet hole to the head.Use a 22 CB ans you won't have an exit hole.

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07/08 season
67 coyotes
16 Bobcats
42 coons
11 Beaver
7 skunks
Never counted all the grinners but a lot!


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PostPosted: 10 Jun 2008, 07:10 
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me niether..... I carry a Browning Buck Mark and 22 short's on the line....and have been docked on very few of the one's shot out to the hound's.....a few over the year's but not many.....

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PostPosted: 10 Jun 2008, 07:21 
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The "funny" thing about being docked on the price of a hide due to a bullet hole or small tear due to fleshing is a joke. Anyone who has been dealing with furs for any length of time know that the fur houses both cut up the hides and resew them and a couple of holes shouldn't be cause for a price reduction. One fur dealer I had that had his own fur house would buy "damaged" hides and immediately sew them up and finish them. Some hides can be damaged enough to be docked, but just a couple of 22 bullet holes is not a good reason. Of course that is just my opinion on the matter.

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PostPosted: 10 Jun 2008, 07:30 
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I want Swamp as my fur buyer :wink: :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: 10 Jun 2008, 14:08 
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You are aloud three bullet holes (22 cal.) even in the middle of the back of a pelt without downgrading.

For larger holes and tears, look on the internet on how to tie stitches (like you get when you cut yourself), and sew up large holes with dental floss. Once the hide is stretched and dried, you can remove the stitches and if done right the hole is almost undetectable. The key is, you need a hooked needle. It is very difficult to sew a hide with a straight sewing needle because you have to push away from the tear to insert the needle, which opens the hole everytime you place a stitch. The hooked needle lets you pull the tear closed while adding stitches.

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2009, 10, 11, 2012
Coon - 56, 11, 20, 22
Mink - 34, 12, 19, 15
Opossum - 3, 2, 0, 1
Skunk - 2, 0, 1, 0
Coyote - 2, 1, 2, 0
Muskrat - 4, 0, 3, 11
Red Fox - 0, 1, 0, 0
Squirrel - 0, 0, 1, 1


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PostPosted: 10 Jun 2008, 14:39 
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You can pick up a packet of "craft" needles in the sewing and crafts department of Wally World. It has the curved ones and some heavy duty straight ones. You can use sinew as well as dental floss to mend the tears, cuts and bullet holes. Where you been ROTO??? :?

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PostPosted: 10 Jun 2008, 15:25 
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boy's I got a lot faster and easier way ...and this is one of those trade secret's you hear about...here go's.....take the hole pull all the hair throught the hole to the outside..let it dry just enough that it has a leathery edge around it....usally over night...pull the hole either up or down [or side way's or any way to get it to fit back together right]depending on the way the hole's running to a ;slit' ...the hide will tell you which way to pull it ....see, the trear or hole should fit back togeather like a puzzle..with the two leathery edges close togather slap the SUPER GLUE to it...let dry 30 secound's ,at it's fixed..I just fix my tear before you could get your needle threaded.....and boy's I have fixed some massive hole's in hide's this way ..and when it set's it's permanate..I thought this one up in the emegancy room when the Doc glued a knife wound shut I got on the job site one day...should have got a pat. on this one ,cause it work to good to be true..TRY IT...

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PostPosted: 10 Jun 2008, 16:08 
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:shock: Sounds like a PLAN....but what kind of job do you have that you get KNIFE WOUNDS ON???? :shock:

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PostPosted: 10 Jun 2008, 16:22 
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Do you just smear it (smoothly) all across the hole?

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07-08 season
red fox: 4
grey fox: 9
yote: 1
coon: 17
skunk: 4
cottontail: 1
grinners: quit countin


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PostPosted: 10 Jun 2008, 16:23 
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Location: Top of the hill in Ill.
utility knife ..had my hand on the insulation board [foil face tuff-r] while I was installing a piece of soffett ,the guy on the inside was cutting out window 's and door hole's ..didn't know I was there ..he shoved the knife throught the board and pulled down hard..quarter inch deep from the heal of my palm to the tip of my middle finger...carpenter work is as hard on my hand's as trapping and fishing..

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PostPosted: 10 Jun 2008, 16:38 
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trapper ,I put alittle on each side of the tear on the slightly dried edges and the squeeze it togather with my finger and thumb ...you will feel the chemical reaction in the glue [it will get warm to hot in your finger].i do about a inch at a time then move up the tear and do another inch or so.Try and not get any out in the hair much..after you make your repair take a brush after 5 or ten min.'s to make sure it set's and brush it out you can't even see where you repaired it..Trap I'm not a very good explainer of how I do it but I will try to make it simple for me....you are basicly glueing one side of the tear or hole back to the other side of the tear or hole ..thus closing the hole ..hope that is a better explanation..I should also maybe add that I pull all the hair back away from the hole to expose the edges of the tear or hole..kind'a like when you blow on the fur and it seperate's down to the hide itself.

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PostPosted: 10 Jun 2008, 16:51 
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Sounds like it would work.

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07-08 season
red fox: 4
grey fox: 9
yote: 1
coon: 17
skunk: 4
cottontail: 1
grinners: quit countin


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