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 Post subject: new pics
PostPosted: 14 Feb 2008, 12:44 
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Joined: 29 Jan 2008, 11:28
Posts: 259
Location: southeastern ohio
this is the pic of my finished first set
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nothing so far, more rabbit tracks though
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These are of my second set, i wish i had some dry dirt on hand already, the dirt was so wet i have very little faith in this set. was good practice though.
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Looking at the pics i just realized i forgot to crumble my wax paper oops, I'm not going to do any more due to the mud,
thanks for looking
Pete


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14 Feb 2008, 13:35 
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THE IDAHO TRAPPIN' MACHINE
THE IDAHO TRAPPIN' MACHINE

Joined: 16 Oct 2007, 20:56
Posts: 2847
Location: Trapping Idaho
if you need some dry dirt....get it out of the crawl space under your house......
just a suggestion.
Lone

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14 Feb 2008, 13:37 
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Joined: 21 Dec 2007, 15:43
Posts: 612
Location: Tennessee
looking pretty good, a couple suggestions:

Your trap is kinda far from your hole. You can still catch them as they walk over it, but you may have better luck putting the trap closer to the hole cause they should be shuffling their feet around there a lot. For coyotes, a good rule of thumb is put the pan about 6 inches from the hole, for fox, right up on the hole as close as you can get it.

You could lay some sticks down so that they will be less likely to approach your hole from the sides, but dont go nuts, keep it natural.

Your trap bed is huge! lol try to keep it just big enough to fit the trap in. Put yourself in an animals shoes: Something smells pretty enticing/curious...then you step on a spot of ground that it soft and must've been freshly dug in...whatever you smell must be under there...dig it up!

If you plug up the hole with a wad of grass or leaves so they cannot see down in it, they will likely dig at it, keeping their feet over your trap for longer.

That set can catch fox or coyote, but where I am at I have noticed that, for reasons I do not understand, freshly dug around dirt like a skirt around your hole seems to attract fox, but makes yotes suspicious. Yotes seem to like a set to look virtually undisturbed except for an unremarkable hole. Not to say you cant catch both in either type of set, thats just the trend I have noticed.

Where you buried your trap you can see the 'shelf' where your trap bed is. It isnt a bad idea to have your trap slightly lower than the surrounding area, they like to step in low spots, but you could blend that shelving in so it isnt so obviously dug out.

That being said, it looks like a great start.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14 Feb 2008, 16:00 
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POST-JACKING AND PIXEL SIZE CZAR (P.J.A.P.S.C.)
POST-JACKING AND PIXEL SIZE CZAR (P.J.A.P.S.C.)

Joined: 25 Dec 2007, 23:33
Posts: 11245
Location: Alberta, Canada
Thanks for the pictures. Want to see those locations with a catch circle next. Now I remember why I quit taking pictures of my sets{one night I got home looking at the pictures and my gloves were still laying there. :lol:


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 Post subject: location
PostPosted: 14 Feb 2008, 23:09 
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Joined: 31 Aug 2006, 23:19
Posts: 369
Location: W. Central Wisc. Jackson cty.
dITTO RYEBEAR WORD FOR WORD.

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yotes 28
red fox 19
grey fox 13
coon 21
rat 14
beaver 27
otter


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 15 Feb 2008, 10:19 
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Professional Trapper
Professional Trapper

Joined: 20 Jan 2008, 18:39
Posts: 1457
Location: west central illinois
Pete, Looks like you have the bedding part down,I agree with ryebear the trap should be closer to the hole, I use my hand from middle finger tip to my wrist ( just over 7 inches) as a guide, although a little closer for both fox and yotes is fine. I would also offset the trap on the down wind side of the hole as most canines aproch from an angle to a set. It looks like you are fencing the trap quite a bit with the sticks, coyotes may shy away from this. Good luck and let us know how it goes!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 15 Feb 2008, 15:01 
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Joined: 29 Jan 2008, 11:28
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Location: southeastern ohio
I want thank you all for your help, it is very much appreciated, I just picked up a wildview trail cam today and am going to put it on a post set ,minus the trap in the morning with some shelled corn.
Thanks again for all your help
Pete


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 15 Feb 2008, 21:10 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 11 Feb 2008, 22:36
Posts: 142
I am curious to know what the two white bars are that go over the jaw and under the pan in some of your pics. I can't make them out. Looks to me like they would get caught between the jaws when the trap snaps if you leave them there.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 16 Feb 2008, 08:46 
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Joined: 29 Jan 2008, 11:28
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Location: southeastern ohio
It's a trap bedder, it keeps the pan raised up while you are working in side the jaws firming up the soil,kind of saves your fingers, it keeps the pan from accidently firing on your hand, you remove it just before your final sift covering of dirt.
Pete


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 16 Feb 2008, 10:02 
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KING OF THE POSTERS
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Joined: 03 Feb 2008, 12:18
Posts: 16400
Location: Lufkin, TX
When my eldest son was just starting I fixed him a similar tool using a tin can with with a slot cut to fit over the dog. The can was placed over the pan and he could pack the dirt around his trap without fear of getting it snapped on himself. Once the dirt was packed, he'd take the can away and finish covering his trap. It worked well.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 16 Feb 2008, 10:31 
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Joined: 29 Jan 2008, 11:28
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Location: southeastern ohio
now with duke traps do you have to cut a notch on the sides for the levers as well as the dog notch to get it to sit on the frame???
Pete


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 16 Feb 2008, 10:48 
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Joined: 03 Feb 2008, 12:18
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Location: Lufkin, TX
I couldn't honestly tell you....I have no Duke traps.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 16 Feb 2008, 10:54 
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Joined: 29 Jan 2008, 11:28
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Location: southeastern ohio
oh well thats ok, the trapbedder is working ok so far. I will work on the trappers cap though. Thanks
Pete


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 16 Feb 2008, 11:14 
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Professional Trapper
Professional Trapper

Joined: 20 Jan 2008, 18:39
Posts: 1457
Location: west central illinois
pete, just a couple more suggestions I salt the bottom of the trap bed or set the trap on wax paper to keep it from freezing down. It looks like your dirt is fairly damp so I suggest you salt the dirt you sift over your trap also. A trappers cap basically eliminates the need to cover the pan with wax paper But if it rains the dirt can de washed under the pan. I personally use wax paper because of the weather here.Good luck


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 16 Feb 2008, 17:57 
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Joined: 29 Jan 2008, 11:28
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Location: southeastern ohio
Thanks Illtrapper2, I will have to try wax paper in the bottom of the trap bed, i did mix my dirt with a little salt, and sprinkeled some in the bed
thanks again
Pete


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 17 Feb 2008, 09:40 
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Joined: 20 Dec 2006, 18:37
Posts: 456
Location: central pa
a sfor the question on dukes and notching check out the thread on duke 1 3/4 there the problem pans

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 17 Feb 2008, 12:14 
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CANADIAN SASQUATCH
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Joined: 30 Nov 2007, 00:30
Posts: 3023
Location: Knoxville, TN
I've had problems with all Duke's with the pan getting stuck. Just file the sides down and you outta be alright.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 18 Feb 2008, 11:46 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 11 Feb 2008, 22:36
Posts: 142
Well, that may be a rule of thumb, but it doesn't always apply. For example, I once caught two red foxes (the male one night and the female the next in the same set) against a huge standing tree trunk (about 3' diameter and 20' tall) that was dead and rotting. The ground was snow covered. I cleared a spot next to the trunk, dug a hole, buried a coyote carcass, set a #3 Victor double longspring on top of the buried carcass, and covered the set with dry dirt. This is, without a doubt, the largest backing I have ever used, and it worked. I think this huge old tree was actually a visual attractant because it stood out so much compared to the other trees in the area.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 19 Feb 2008, 09:44 
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Professional Trapper
Professional Trapper

Joined: 20 Jan 2008, 18:39
Posts: 1457
Location: west central illinois
jase, I personally dont think a tall backing will cause canines to shy away from a set especially if their natural. They may circle something to get a better look/smell of whats up. I have seen a coyote out of my deer stand walk right up to an old dead oak tree that was rotted in the center stick its head in the hole and dig around it didnt bother it one bit. I believe that they will shy away more if you try to force them into a spot thier not to sure about.


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