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PostPosted: 21 Jan 2015, 09:35 
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As you know from following my season's thread that I've come into possession of 6 coyotes shot with non-varmint loads from center fire rifles (large exit holes). I think 3 of these are probably whole enough to send to auction but I have a couple of questions:

1. What would be the best stitch to use? I think a "baseball" stitch would be the strongest and most long lasting compared to just a simple back and forth stitch. Other opinions??

2. How do sewn up (1-2 larger exit holes) yotes typically do at auction? If most of the damage is done to one side of the hide, with the main longer hair on the back and the belly hair mostly unaffected, how much damage is actually done to the hide? I suspect that the furrier worries if the hide will hold up under mechanical tanning conditions and probably has to give the sewn up area a bit of a berth when cutting for their garment. Just wondering how sewn up high power rifle damaged yotes get graded and docked at auction??

Thanks!

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PostPosted: 21 Jan 2015, 12:25 
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Here you go. This guy has a TON of information he shares with the world.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0wDanq ... uV2kAVQbg4

As to how they do... I believe it just depends on the quality of the the pelt, which is true with all pelts. Might be down graded some, but it is making use of a resource. Can't hurt but to try. I remember a coyote that I shot while elk hunting one year. Just as I squeezed off the shot, the old dog started to turn. Exit of the bullet opened up the right side of the neck with a rip about ten inches long. Sewed it up and the fur buyer never even mentioned it, and I am sure he knew it was there. Got full price for it too.

REM


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PostPosted: 21 Jan 2015, 13:13 
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Great video Rem! Thanks for posting that.

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PostPosted: 25 Jan 2015, 16:29 
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Cool vid! Interesting how small of a needle he used and what, mono fishing line?? I wonder if a heavier curved needle would work better. I usually use heavier thread on my larger taxidermy projects.

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"And God said, Let us make man in our image …and let them have dominion over the fish of the sea, …the fowl of the air…and all the creatures that move along the ground.
Genesis 1:26


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PostPosted: 25 Jan 2015, 16:40 
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NonPCfed wrote:
Cool vid! Interesting how small of a needle he used and what, mono fishing line?? I wonder if a heavier curved needle would work better. I usually use heavier thread on my larger taxidermy projects.

I use a surgical curved needle that I get from the vet store. They go through the leather like a charm, even beaver. Regular needles don't even compare. :wink:

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A FOOL NEVER SEES THE ONE HE MAKES. (Harold Warp)


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PostPosted: 25 Jan 2015, 16:47 
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OK, here's one of the last of the ditch 6 yotes that I acquired. As many of you know, I've messed around with a few coyote taxidermy projects but have never sent any to auction. This female wasn't shot up too bad (a small egg sized hole in the neck, entry hole over the hips, and a few R knife holes to sew up). The belly fur looks nice and long and the main cape not too bad although there might have been a few spots of mange starting (if you look close on the yardstick at about 13 1/2-15 and then again 20 1/2 -23 there seems to be a little hair missing).

Image

Image

Image

But the real reason I left this towards the end was there was a good sized patch of fur missing (like pulled off or slipped) on her right back leg flank. No place else is the hair loose and there was no green belly so I don't think its slippage do to rot. Stinkbait thought maybe some of these had been run over by snowmobiles but really haven't found any other damage from I would think would happen skinning the rest except maybe this area on her.

Image

My question is, if all the rest of the fur is in decent shape except this area which will dry a just bare raw leather and maybe the start of those mange areas (if they are mange), would it be worth putting this thing up or tan it and sell the main part of it for craft and novelty trade?? I'm sure it would be docked as damaged at auction but perhaps a better damaged one?? Your thoughts??

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Genesis 1:26


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PostPosted: 25 Jan 2015, 21:32 
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That looks like a drag mark to me, lots of that type of marks on deer that get drug out after shooting.


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PostPosted: 25 Jan 2015, 22:12 
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Looks more like the start of rubbing than mange. Could also be from dragging. Put it up and send it in. You won't know until you do. I like the curved needle and dental floss is tougher than it looks.


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PostPosted: 28 Jan 2015, 23:31 
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What did the inside say about mange. It'll be visible when you pull the hide inside out.


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PostPosted: 29 Jan 2015, 00:36 
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What do you mean by "visible"?? You can see light through the leather looking back out because the fur is really thinned? the leather is discolored or mottled looking? other??

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Genesis 1:26


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PostPosted: 29 Jan 2015, 05:57 
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Honestly R, if it were me i'd go the craft/self tan route. If it were just one smallish area i might consider sending it to auction but with 3 areas in question considering size of them,where they are and that its fur damage not leather, i'd self tan. Should it go down as damaged at auction, which I think is very likely, you may well get a $10 bill or less. In any case whatever you'd get, I personally think you would be money ahead not sending it to auction. Just my opinion and what I would do.

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PostPosted: 29 Jan 2015, 13:18 
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Thanks Amak, I always value your advice!! I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. Maybe all of these ditch yotes someone actually had taken to one of the mobile country buyers and they wouldn't give an offer on them and that's why they ended up in the ditch?? Because I have not shipped any coyotes to auction, I might try to establish a baseline of what I see here in hand and what they get graded. That way I know what to avoid in the future. The last NAFA pick up for us is in April so I'll wait until the end of March sale to see if semi-heavy yotes stay up in price. Most of the hard work is behind me with those semi-frozen mutts, although breaking leather after getting them out of the tanning solution is not work free :wink:

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Genesis 1:26


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PostPosted: 29 Jan 2015, 20:44 
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Nonpc, can you describe how you go about things with your method of breaking leather please?

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PostPosted: 30 Jan 2015, 22:57 
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Amak, I don't know if I have a set method or not. Have done it a number of ways with various results. Swamp Rat. MSG, and others may have things down more pat. I know a couple of things: 1) getting all the fat off is important. A person can tan something with still a good amount of fat in the hide and it will keep for years but it won't be very good, always sort of greasy or tacky and will discolor where the grease is the heaviest. 2) The other thing is getting the leather broken. A lot of people spend a lot of time worrying about what tanning agent to use and such but more important is working that hide during the sweet time when its not too wet or too dry to stretch the leather into something pliable and soft. And breaking most critter leather except really thin stuff takes some elbow grease.

When I do some this spring or early summer, maybe I'll do a walk long of how it goes.

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"And God said, Let us make man in our image …and let them have dominion over the fish of the sea, …the fowl of the air…and all the creatures that move along the ground.
Genesis 1:26


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PostPosted: 02 Feb 2015, 21:14 
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Well, my first attempt of putting one of these salvaged yotes on the board ended in a flop.

I had washed the skin and let it air dry a day or two in the garage in the 30s or low 40s (probably colder at night) before I put it on the board leather side out. Had it that way for about 2-3 days in the same conditions. The main down the back part of the leather dried pretty good but the head, neck, front leg elbows, and back legs were still damp to wet. I thought it probably didn't matter in a cold garage. Mistake.

I brought the stretcher inside on Sunday morning while the wifey was working and had it in my downstairs utility room. By late afternoon there was certainly a taint smell coming from the hide. All the places that has been tight on the stretcher and had been wet were starting to go bad.

To top it off, the colors on the back fur side of the hide seemed too abruptly two-tone after looking at it one the board more so it must have been had a slight case of mange or whatever where it had lost guard hair and other outer hair. Even on the flip side on the neck there were places where there was a sharp coloration difference.

Image

Image

I'm going to cut the hide in half and save the lower part to tan for craft work. I stopped the tainted areas on the back leg with some borax. I think after I wash the next one, I'm going to pay close attention to towel dry the problem areas and then use a blow dryer on the leather in those spots so it dries closer in time to the thinner and better part of the leather along the back. Maybe the next one will come out better :?

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"And God said, Let us make man in our image …and let them have dominion over the fish of the sea, …the fowl of the air…and all the creatures that move along the ground.
Genesis 1:26


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PostPosted: 02 Feb 2015, 22:06 
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To bad about that PC, you spent some time making those pelts look presentable.


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