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 Post subject: school me
PostPosted: 16 Aug 2013, 17:13 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 02 May 2013, 08:05
Posts: 81
Location: SW Mo
Right off let me say that I am a boil in tannin and wax fellow, just always have been and believe that there is at least some science to indicate benefits from such treatment.

Now over the last couple of years I have seen many many post on multiple forums about using vinegar or muriatic acid or lye to remove all the rust, all the previous protective coatings from traps. Then the procedures call for reestablishing rust prior to retreating with whatever protective coating.

Questions: if the trap has protective coating left on it why remove it?
if rust is neccessary for application of new coating why remove it?
since acid and lye both are harmful to traps why use them?
since dirt traps are covered with dirt (thus invisable) and water traps are under water (refraction making them invisable) why would colour matter?
if a simple coating such as dip or paint prevents rust why is my truck (done under ideal conditions that we cannot achieve) rusty?
Is there any science showing that any of the various dips/coatings stop or prevent rust? or is there any where that I can find what these coatings are made of?

Observations; there is some evidence that tannin converts ferrous oxide to ferrous tannate
acid and strong bases both corrode steel
acid and strong bases are both difficult to completly remove or nuetralize on steel
traps are costly (why would I want to shorten thier life)
Rust grows unobserved under simple coatings


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 Post subject: Re: school me
PostPosted: 17 Aug 2013, 14:32 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 02 May 2013, 08:05
Posts: 81
Location: SW Mo
Nice reply there, thank you.
I was really trying more to find the reasoning behind the acid/lye treatments that I keep seeing posted. These processes seem to me to be destructive and in some cases perhaps dangerous.
Can't recall if any were on this site as I visit several trapping sites and I have posted this same request on other sites.
Perhaps I won't gain any insight as to why it's done and I do not intend to change anyones mind, I may have intended to cause some one to think.
Did not intend to debate, however I might have asked more questions depending on the nature of any response. Your response being well thought out leaves no questions to be asked.


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 Post subject: Re: school me
PostPosted: 17 Aug 2013, 23:03 
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Professional Trapper
Professional Trapper

Joined: 28 Jan 2011, 16:07
Posts: 3089
Location: northwestern Ontario
tjm I think jase said it very well. We all have our own methods and reasons. Traps are expensive and you want to protect them so you get a good long life from them. New traps are coated in a protective oil, good for the trap but not so good for k9. Vinegar or baking soda broke down that oil. For my self I boil every year all my traps in log wood dye. The boiling action removes the rust and also adds a dark color to the trap. Speed dip is also good and will last longer on your traps that you will use in water compared to logwood dye. The problem with speed dip is that it can go on thick and your dogs will clog up a bit causing some frustration to yourself later on when setting. No matter how you look at it once you remove the protective oil from the trap you will have to dye or paint or what ever you decide every year to keep your trap in top notch working order. Color of your traps will not make any difference. We had a gentleman here in Canada catch otter in pink spray painted traps, just an experiment to prove that color has no bearing on your catch ratio. I can sum it up for you in 2 ways. If you boil your traps in logwood dye or walnut or any other means of dyeing your traps then the boiling action will clean your rust from your traps as well as dye them. If you use a speed dip or paint then you should remove the rust as just dipping them or painting over the rust will not last as you are just coating over the rust. Vinegar or baking soda is an easy solution to remove rust or you could even take them to the car wash and pressure spray them. Or if you wanted to go to extremes put them in the dish washer as some have posted. Might have some problems with the misses though.


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 Post subject: Re: school me
PostPosted: 17 Aug 2013, 23:31 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 02 May 2013, 08:05
Posts: 81
Location: SW Mo
wolf, pretty much agree with your comments (exception being vinagar) and thank you for posting.

Jase, so far I am not geting many responses, it may be my bedside manner, I'm not sure. Although on one forum an individual allmost completly contradicted a post he'd made very recently, with out any other comments from me.

Did not really think I'd such recomendations on this forum, as I said I visit several some more often than others.

Thank you all for the use of your forum


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 Post subject: Re: school me
PostPosted: 17 Aug 2013, 23:45 
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Trapper
Trapper

Joined: 02 May 2013, 08:05
Posts: 81
Location: SW Mo
Jase, I'm not a chemist, but don't think most acids would dissolve wax readily. I suspect wax remover would be a petroleum derived solvent. Hot water works so well, so cheap.


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