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|Author:||TrapperKD [ 21 Apr 2007, 10:49 ]|
|Post subject:||Pan Tensioning|
Pan Tensioning came up in the Waxing thread so I thought I would pull this snippet from Smitty's Trap Modifications thread.
Pan Tension- This will be the last step, and is preformed AFTER your traps are cleaned & treated. Again, this is strictly my opinion (wax vs dip), that I believe wax will speed-up (lubricate) a trap more than any dip will. I dye & wax my land traps, but dip my water traps (more for the quickness & ease of the process). I loosen all panbolts prior to treatment to allow more wax/dip into the area of the panposts & panshank.
Tension is simply a matter of tightening (or loosening) the panbolt. I use a screwdriver AND a nutdriver (or wrench if the nutdriver won't fit).
I use a Hal Sullivan Tension Tester ($12-14) merely for convince. For smaller animals, alot of trappers run no pan tension. Just tighten the nut enough so all side-play in the pan is eliminated, but the pan still falls freely.
You can make a few different weights of scrap lumber, (mark the weight on them) to set on the pan until the trap fires.
If you use a Sullivan Tester, fold-up the loose jaw & place the tester outside of it. This will prevent the trap from firing directly on the tester, eventually damaging it. Also, keep the tester in the center of the pan, as 1 way or the other will affect the leverage & give you inaccurate readings.
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